Friday, May 7, 2010

莎莉飲食專題討論:雞尾,雞美

莎莉首個夜宴的文章還未整理好,今日先跟大家分享一篇個人認為挺有趣的文章。這篇短文早前曾於Openrice為慶祝十週年而出版的書刊中登載,有些朋友應該巳讀過了。

以小見大,是我們其中一種觀察或評審事物的方式。記得筆者念書時第一篇自行起題的論文,就是〈從赤壁之戰看《三國誌》的歷史觀〉,即是憑籍作著陳壽如何去描述一場戰爭,從而引論整部書,甚至是作者本身對解構和演譯歷史的看法。忽發奇想,如果將這種研法套用在飲食上,相信會蠻有趣。那筆者就來個「觀雞於微」,以雞的其中一部份,跟大家分享一下筆者一些難忘的吃雞經驗。

熟悉筆者的朋友也知筆者素愛雞尾,關於自身如何戀上這該死的「豐羶油物」,篇幅所限,暫且不贅。這次的主題,是<從雞尾去看一只雞的美味指數>。筆者吃雞,一定先嚐雞尾,雞尾好吃,對整只雞的信心也大一點。除了因為筆者本身喜愛這部位外,也是由於雞尾乃雞的排泄區,細菌多,膻味濃,不容易處理,所以個人認為如果店家肯花心機去清理雞尾而又做得好的,在某程度上也反映了廚子對製作食物的誠意。現在,就跟大家談談三款最得筆者之心的雞尾。

首先,是港大校友會的名物鹽焗雞。其雞尾,是筆者嚐過最香羶惹味的。飽滿的雞尾經過「真正」鹽焗後,皮帶焦香,脂膏甘腴,加上醃得入味,對筆者來說,簡直是人間極品!至於雞本身,甭說,當然也極為出色。


港大校友會的鹽焗雞雞尾

客家好廚的鹹雞,也饒有名氣,其雞尾,亦叫筆者津津樂道。之前巳提過,雞尾羶味濃重,脂肪又多,烹調不善,吃起來會羶臭膩滯。鹽焗或油炸等烹調方法,因為會使雞尾變得香口,有助減退以上問題。浸雞形式,雞尾處理是否得宜,就有點無所循形了。客家好廚的雞尾皮層不太厚,脂膏沒過盛,是選雞得宜;不帶任何異味,是處理恰當;浸得夠味,口感甘滑,菱形兩側的小肉嫩若嬰肌,是烹調出色,委實是滋味樂無窮。

客家好廚的鹹雞 〔忘了影雞尾〕


談到最深刻的吃雞尾經驗,莫過於筆者早前於海景嘉福酒店海景軒吃過的一頓生日晚飯。當中各道菜餚的表現,無容置疑,但最叫筆者驚喜的,還是總廚梁師傅為筆者親自預備的生日蛋糕 -~ 雞尾八小福!那一刻,真的感動得無言以對!至於美味指數,梁師傅的出品,還不是信心的保證?!

海景軒的雞尾生日蛋糕

分享完畢,但先此聲明,這個什麼「觀雞於微」的論式,鬧著玩而巳,大家不要見笑啊!

突然想起,身邊的幾位姐妹對家禽類的部份皆是各有所好,但我們所好的部位又剛好各有不同,例如Margaret喜歡雞頭、ET鐘情雞頸、西西里偏愛翼尖、Deborah欣賞雞腳 〔上次見她把我做的雞腳吃完又吃就知了~),我就情迷雞尾,大家各取所需,實在是個微妙又絕佳的配合。如果不是,相信我們定必你推我讓,爭相割愛,最終一定是身軀都給吃了,四肢頭尾卻無人捨得去碰!哈哈~

最後,我要多謝每位知道及記得莎莉喜歡雞尾這個辟好的朋友,也感激大家一起吃飯時常常替我尋找、留起、搜集雞尾。正如Margaret所說,有朋友知道並在意自己的喜好,是件很幸福和溫暖的事情。

又要外出吃飯喇,明天見~

10 comments:

  1. 我係全隻雞任何部份都喜歡吃......

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  2. 有朋友知道並在意自己的喜好,是件很幸福和溫暖的事情。
    讚..讚..讚!!!!!!!!!

    ReplyDelete
  3. 紅叮:其實基本上我都好喜歡吃雞的~
    Fraz: ^_^

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  4. 有朋友知道並在意自己的喜好,是件很幸福和溫暖的事情

    Actually this is what KC taught me!!! I thought this is so true and that's why I say it so many times. But the credit should be given to KC!

    I completely feel 幸福和溫暖 when every helps to collect the heads for me! Really, you feel like "What have I done to deserve their kindness? That they actually think of me when they are enjoying their food?"

    In this world, who will remember to save you the best and favorite parts of the dishes during a meal? It's your family! So that's why my dining friends, like you, Sally, Fraz, and KC (who collected all the smoked pigeon heads for me at Chairman) are just like family now! :)

    Fraz and Sally, of course I will always rememeber what food you two like as well! :)

    Love,
    Margaret

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  5. 莎莉and 小meg 妳哋都係朕嘅至愛:)'''
    MORE THAN A family !

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  6. Hi Little Meg,

    Oh so it should be KC who made this very nice statement in the first place~

    Haha, KC used to collect chicken bottoms for me ga! I still remember the first time he gathered those yummy bottoms from other tables for me was at the 港大校友會 dinner gathering. I was so overwhelmingly touched!!

    But I don't know since when he would no longer do this for me lu....(maybe both you and Fanny have drawn all his attention la!! Haha, just kidding~). Once he even took away the pig heads at my dinner banquet!! When I found out my head was gone I was so shocked and upset that I even got tears in my eyes because I couldn’t have the yummy and crispy meat ne~~ Haha, now that I think about the scene, I still felt very embarrassed for being so 低B! 食唔到豬頭就喊,勁 “火羅”^_^" 。When I met the owner of the restaurant the other night, he asked why I cried in the middle of the dinner, I told him the reason and he tried very hard not to laugh at this ar~~~ But no matter what, KC is still the first person who introduced me to this wonderful part of the pig (the first time I had roasted suckling pig head was at the Ole dinner gathering he organized). So I’m still very thankful~~

    You know what, I think we are meant to be good sisters, as you like “head” I like “bottom”. What a perfect match!!!

    Thanks again for visiting my blog and liking it.

    Love you!

    Sally

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  7. King Fraz: I also love the both of you soooooooo much ar!!!!!!!!!!!!

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  8. 依篇我o係openrice開飯10年都有睇, 覺得勁搞笑但又好生鬼! 妳咁鍾意雞尾, 要收集一個「雞美」album, 到時一次過post出黎一定好有氣勢架!! XD
    (因我都收集緊一個咁的心太軟album, haha)

    yan ^.^

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  9. Yan: Thanks for liking my article! And good idea wor! Let's add oil on our "special album", haha~

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